Early start in the heat, up a hill and into the headwinds. A trifecta. Through yerucham and then with a turn to the west (and out of the wind) to Sde Boker and Ben Gurions grave. Beautiful spot in a stark harsh environment--always amazing to me that this is the land we're killing each other for. After lunch another monster climb in the heat, relentless as you see the whole thing and to our hotel by 3pm. Looking forward to day off by the pool in our shlakes for shabbat. 42 miles.   Saturday went to several talks. The machtesh is not a crater (formed by meteorite or volcano), but a unique geological feature on earth mostly due to erosion. Mitzpe ramon at 800m (used to snow here) has different climate than surrounding desert, only established in 1960s. Very diverse community due to waves of immigration and artsy schools including a forest kindergarten. In the machtesh, we go to hyper-arid (5% rain vs evaporation) climate - nothing grows. Also heard talks about arava foundat...

Short ride today before we visit three oct 7th sites. Chod and I chose riding with the slow group as less bad than waiting an hour+ at meetup spot for Jason and the chalutsim. Heard a siren in the background, home front app running on the phone; surreal being 3km from gaza. Busy roads beat up with tank treads looking forward to getting south. 22 miles. First stop down roads 34 and 232 to the burnt cars where 1500 cars were piled up to clear the roads and search for remains/possessions. Brutal. Then lunch at kibbutz be'eri (105 murdered, 3 bodies still in gaza, 7 hours till army got here, 350 terrorists) to meet with two survivors, who says they're rebuilding and not going anywhere. And that hamas must go. And Israeli govt not doing enough. They say they get strength from visitors like us - its why I'm here. They also say they've given up on peace. Crushing. Then nova. What can you say about this killing field? 378 brutally killed, 44 taken hostage (19 killed). U...

6am wakeup, 7am on time departure. Amazing. Bus out of city down yesterday's hill then back up to bar habar. Stunning ridge top riding then big descent (which some skipped) towards beit shemesh. Big group so had to wait 30+ min at 1st stop with an environmental talk of good and bad (17% solar energy, way fewer cool nights, 22% EV sales, animal species going down due to population growth, all trees planted by jnf since 1948, 4% of electricity for desalination). Then through fields and agricultural plateau and by Gal'on. Post lunch the heat and headwinds picked up as we cruised to Ashkelon, roads a little busier. In the Mediterranean by 3pm. Met up with amnon in the evening and a bunch of very large american guys staying here doing work in gaza. 52 miles.

Nothing like sitting outside at a cafe, drinking coffee, taking it all in. Looking out at a mix of old and new israel, secular and religious, lots of children. Is this really the only place in the world where its ok to be Jewish 100% of the time? Easy train up to Jerusalem where i walked (best walking city in the world), met up with Joel and Lara in their new house overlooking the hills west of the city. Lots of good conversation, he has a good life here.   Monday woke up and realized walking to hotel, then to old city could mean 2000' climbing. Will save that for the ride and took a taxi then the bus with my new rav kav card. They're building out the light rail system here, in addition to so much new construction everywhere. Met up with Bentzi and Abby, good to reconnect with them both. The country is so traumatized, and hopeful - but nobody talks long term peace with the arabs. Walking around, there are more soldiers than I've ever seen here. Magic of touching the ...

My desire to come to Israel post oct 7 was powerful, even without a bike ride. Israelis have been through so much (everyone lost someone and have been to too many funerals) and I wanted to visit friends to offer whatever support and encouragement that I could. Staying with Alon (who has not changed and still loves Israel more than can be described), we walked along beach and had dinner by the water. A delish arabic place and everyone gets along fine - explain to me how if Israel is committing genocide, Israeli arabs (ie Palestinians) choose to stay and live in Israel, with a Jewish govt. They don't move to ramallah, gaza or USA right?  On Saturday went to haifa to see Itzik and his family, sitting on his porch drinking coffee trying to get adult time. So good to reconnect.  Stopped and walked around caesarea -no entrance fees on Shabbat (and no traffic! ). Cranes building houses, yellow flags and yellow wrecked cars visible everywhere. Tomorrow up to Jerusalem for more f...